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Great work everyone involved in the development of Mobirise page creator, and perfect timing with the new Google Responsive rules in mobile search.
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If you add more prebuilt blocks to drag and drop into the web pages, that will help growth.
Wiring snake or wire coat hanger 1.
With the higher quality kits, these cables often come with a ring terminal attached to one of their ends. Remember to disconnect your negative battery cable from the terminal before you start any electrical work on your car. You may have to peel back the carpet in the interior for a better view. That way you can just poke a hole through the grommet and run your power cable through.
Once your hole is just big enough to pass the cable, protect the edges of the hole with some paint or rust inhibitor like POR Once the paint is dry, install a rubber grommet or firewall bushing into the hole to protect your cable from chaffing against the sharp metal edges. Run the power cable through the grommet from the inside of the car with the ring terminal going towards the battery.
As you route the cable inside the engine bay be sure the cable is far enough away from moving engine parts and anything that could pinch it. Caulk any gaps around the inner edge of the grommet if necessary. Leave the power cable disconnected from the battery for now. Most wiring kits come with the correct fuse and fuse holder but if you have to buy one separately, the fuse size depends on the maximum current draw of your system.
This fuse plays an extremely important role in protecting your car from a fire if the power wire shorts out. Once you decide on a good place to put the fuse holder, cut your power cable accordingly and sandwich the fuse holder between the ends. Use self-tapping screws to secure the fuse holder in place.
Routing Through the Interior The main objective is to conceal your wiring not only for safety but to give your install a clean and professional look. Always use the most direct route for your power cable and wiring. Depending on the location of the amp, you may need to remove the kick panel, pillar trim panel, door scuff plate, rear seats and pull up just enough carpet to facilitate the routing process. Snake the power cable underneath the carpet or behind trim all the way to the amp while avoiding any pinch points like seat tracks or door jambs.
At some point once you reach the amp, the power cable is going to have to come out from behind the trim or underneath the carpet to connect to the amp. A good technique is to cut a little slit in the carpet to allow the power cable to pop out right at the connection point.
Connect the Ground Cable Your ground cable should be short and the same diameter gauge as your power cable. Look for a grounding bolt nearby.
This can be any bolt going through the metal of your car. Improper grounding is the primary cause of audio noise problems. Be sure you know what you may be drilling into on the other side! Whatever method you choose, always finish by covering the connection with paint or other rust-blocker to prevent corrosion.
Cut a slit in the carpet like you did for the power cable so the negative ground cable can connect to the amp. Run the Remote Turn-on Lead The remote wire is responsible for turning your amplifier on and off in conjunction with your receiver or head unit. Connecting to an Aftermarket Head Unit Pull your head unit out of the dash so you can access the wiring in the back.
Route your remote wire usually blue from the amp along the same path as your power cable and then branch off to go under the dash and to the back of your head unit. Aftermarket head units will generally have a remote turn on lead coming out of the back that you can splice into.
Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from the head unit, wrap the turn on lead you just ran from the amp around it and solder. Although soldering gives you the best and most reliable connection you can also use crimp connectors and a crimp tool to join the two wires.
Remember to use heat shrink tubing around your soldered or crimped connection to protect it from damage or a potential short. Tap into a Switched or Accessory Wire This is the easiest and most convenient option, allowing your amp to turn on when the key is in the accessory or run position and then turn off when you shut off the car. Then splice into it as described above by soldering or using crimp connectors with heat shrink tubing. Enable DC Offset or Signal Sense Turn-On if Equipped Some amplifiers have the ability to detect a 6-volt DC offset from the hi-level speaker outputs or sense the incoming audio signal when your head unit is turned on.
When voltage is present across your speaker, the circuitry inside the module produces a volt output to the remote wire. Run the Audio Cables Making the audio signal connection between your head unit and amp is where it can get a little confusing for first-time installers. The method you choose will depend on two main factors: Connecting to an Aftermarket Head Unit Working with an aftermarket head unit is the easiest scenario because it will already have preamp outputs in the back for you.
Plug both of your RCA cables into the outputs in the back of your head unit and route them to the amp on the opposite side of the vehicle from the power cable and remote turn on lead. Keep track of the left and right cables while routing. When you arrive at the amp, cut slits in the carpet, pull out both cables and plug them into the correct left and right jacks on the amp.
Regardless the the option you choose below, always route audio signal cables on the opposite side of the vehicle from your power cable and try to steer clear of other factory wiring as much as possible. The converter will typically have wires coming out of one side and 2 RCA jacks on the other. Simply take the wires from the converter and splice them into the matching speaker leads coming out of the back of your head unit.
Then plug in your 2 RCA cables to the other end of your converter and run them to the amp.
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Speaker-level Inputs If your amplifier has speaker-level inputs you can use those instead of RCA cables or a converter. Splice into the speaker leads in the back of your head unit, run them to the amp and plug into the inputs directly using appropriate connectors for your unit. The amp inputs convert the high voltage signal to one the amplifier can handle. Not everyone amplifies their rear fill speakers and leave these connected to the head unit.
Speakers should not be connected to both the head unit and amp because it will damage your electronics. The common exception are the rear speakers which are just used for fill or to tap into for speaker-level inputs for the amp.
In an ideal setup you want to route all speaker signal wires so they stay clear of the power cable or other factory wiring but this is often easier said than done. To reach the front speakers, either route them like you did the RCA cables or speaker-level lines depending on your application or send them down the center console.
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This means that you may have to cross over under the dash and therefore use slightly longer wires to reach speakers on one side of your car. If you do have to cross a power cable or a bundle of factory wiring do it at a degree angle so the cross-over point has minimum contact. Your aftermarket speakers often provide instructions for a few different configurations depending on the brand, your car and number of channels on your amplifier so wire them according to the scenario that best fits your setup.
Labeling your wires will help you keep track of your positive and negative terminals. A good trick for fishing new speaker wires through the rubber boot and into the door is to snip the factory speaker wires under the dash before they go into the boot and tie your new speaker wires to the ends protruding from the boot. Then gently pull out the factory speaker wires from the other side door side and your new wires will travel through the boot and up to where your new speakers will be.
Run new speaker wires from your amp as described in the section above for aftermarket speakers and splice each one into the corresponding factory wire in the harness under the dash before they go into the door boots. Test Your New Amp With all your connections in place, insert the fuse in the fuse holder near the battery, reconnect the positive terminal first followed by the negative battery terminal. Start the car and make sure your electronics are working properly.
Turn on your radio and set the gain on the amp. Listen for noise, static or alternator whine when you rev up the engine. If all you hear is the sweet sound of guitars wailing, bass thumping and vocals howling then you just rocked through this install like an audio god! Replace the carpeting and interior panels and finally check that your amp and sub are securely attached to their mounting areas.
In an accident, amps and subs can become dangerous projectiles.
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